Posts Tagged Exterior Paint

DIY – Painting – Exterior Paints

Posted by outside_voices on Saturday, 21 November, 2009

There’s no rule cast in stone that defines an exterior paint. You could paint the outside of your house with paint designated ‘Interior Paint’. But most outdoor formulas will have a number of attributes that make selecting exterior paint preferable.

All house paints, for example, can be put into one of two categories: solvent-based or water-based. The first encompasses all oil or alkyd types, the latter is generally labeled ‘latex’. It's certainly possible to use latex paint for exterior jobs. Decks or fences, for example, will sometimes get a coat of latex rather than more expensive oil-based paint.

Latex is easier to apply and much easier to clean up after, along with usually being less expensive. But in any area that gets substantial sunshine or hot weather, it won't last anywhere near as long. Also, it doesn't have a property inherent in many alkyds: chalking.

Chalking is a process in which the paint slowly oxidizes. Over time, the paint turns to a chalky dust. As rain and wind bathe the outside of the house, the chalk is gradually removed without homeowner effort. That removes dirt and old, very thin layers of paint, keeping the house looking good for a long time. Latex, by contrast, typically peels as it ages, especially from wood surfaces where it hasn’t soaked in well.

Chalking may not always be desirable, either. Depending on the amount of rainfall and how the exterior surface is oriented, the chalk can remain on the surface. That requires that it be cleaned off manually. If left on the wall, the surface looks dull and old.

Oil-based or alkyd paints take longer to dry and are more difficult to spread evenly. They'll be more difficult to remove from surfaces to which they're accidentally applied, such as trim that wasn't perfectly masked. Latex paints allow easier movement of air, ensuring that any moisture trapped evaporates.

About Author: David Hueber is an online expert in food packaging industry. He also offers top quality tips like: House Painting, Interior painting, Exterior Paint & House Painters etc.

Painting Ceilings, The Big Challenge

Posted by outside_voices on Thursday, 19 November, 2009

Painting a ceiling is one of the more challenging house painting jobs. Paint drips onto your face and onto the floor. The angle makes it more difficult to use a brush or even a roller on a pole. A ladder is often needed. Even the lighting is different. To top it off, ceilings are sometimes texture coated. How can you deal with all these difficulties to get a good final result?

The first step to overcoming those hurdles is proper paint selection and using the right tools with it.

Paints come in a variety of types. Oil and latex are only the two broadest categories. Finish is important, too. High gloss will create lots of light reflection, giving the room a very bright look as light from lamps bounces off it. Flat paint will give a much more subtle look.

But beyond these overall types, there are specialty paints used for certain ceilings, such as those with texture coating or acoustic tile. The latter is sometimes used in rooms or areas set aside for home entertainment.

If the ceiling is textured with stucco-like plaster, brushing and rolling are out. The texture will simply crumble off. Spraying becomes mandatory. That creates the need for good ventilation and some extra skill. Using a sprayer is more difficult than it looks. The paint has to be just the right consistency. Otherwise, the sprayer either gums up, or the paint sprays out like water.

Next, it’s important to decide whether primer is needed. For most new surfaces, it's essential. Many more top coats would be needed without it. Also, ceilings are especially prone to water damage. So, a primer becomes a great tool to help hide discolorations that would show through the top coat without one. It also helps provide a good surface to keep paint adhering well. That will help reduce drips.

To reduce dripping in general, make sure to mix paint with the right consistency. You can test the result partially by painting part of a small vertical surface, such as the inside of a closet. Gravity is still working against you, so if the paint is too thin (or too thick), it will run down the wall. On a ceiling, that would be a drip.

About Author: David Hueber is an online expert in roofing industry. He also offers top quality tips like: House Painting, Interior painting, Exterior Paint & House Painters etc.

How to Fix Holes in Wood when Preping to Paint

Posted by outside_voices on Saturday, 31 October, 2009

Repairing Holes in House Wood before Painting and Finish Sanding

It would be nice if your wooden home needed no more than basic house repair. Only caulk and scrape a bit, lay down some painting drop cloths, and roll on some layers of high quality exterior paint.

Maintaining your house is more difficult. Rather than easy, you usually have to repair the wooden facings of the house.

My property needed quite a bit of work. The steel sheeting near the roof gutters leaked and allowed rainwater to soak the wood behind the eve. As the years passed, the wood became rotten and caved in the painted surface.

This repair I wanted to do on my own. I was worried whether wood putty could fill in the gaps properly.

My friend down the block worked on the wood of his home many weekends to control those darn flying termites. This guy’s work quality held up very well. He knew something I did not.

Fill in Wood Holes with Bondo then Use Wood Working Power Tools to Finish Sanding

He told me a contractor had recommended to always apply Bondo to fill larger holes in wood. To get a better understanding see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bondo_(putty)

I had used Bondo on a car repair. This auto filler kept its shape. It permitted sanding and lathing. When he mentioned using Bondo, I instantly knew that this was the right answer.

Using Bondo, the approach is to make repairs in layer after layer with a lot applied first and thinner sections to finish. Furthermore, you can do fine finishing work, combining molding boards and regular kitchen wax paper. To prep for painting by sanding all you need to do is to use one of the wood power sanders to make the Bondo blend smoothly with the wood.

If you have a wooden deck, you should be aware that you can also apply this auto patcher to fill in gouges in the surface of your wood deck. It comes in handy, when you are doing redwood deck maintenance.

Note the fact that Bondo finishes with a reddish hew and this will be obvious, if you only use a transparent water proofing on your wood deck. When you desire to seal your wood deck after patching with Bondo, you might need to use an opaque sealant.

Also it is not necessary to go to an automotive store for Bondo. You can get Bondo at Lowes or Home Depot. Incidentally, my painting prep job shows no signs of deterioration after many years.